Where the islands lie
The Isles of Scilly are a group of small islands in the Atlantic, roughly 28 miles (about 45 kilometers) southwest of Land’s End. They are the most southwesterly part of the British Isles that is inhabited, and on a clear day the first of them can be glimpsed from the far west of the mainland, though weather often hides them.
Five islands are inhabited: St Mary’s, which is the largest and holds the main settlement of Hugh Town, along with Tresco, St Martin’s, St Agnes and Bryher. Beyond these lie dozens of smaller islets and rocks, many of them uninhabited and left to seabirds and seals. The total population is small, generally described as around two thousand people, with most living on St Mary’s.
A separate status
Although the islands are closely tied to Cornwall, they are not run by Cornwall Council. The Isles of Scilly have their own local authority, the Council of the Isles of Scilly, which has an unusual set of powers that reflect the practical challenges of island life. For some purposes, such as certain services and ceremonial arrangements, the islands are linked with Cornwall. For everyday local government, they are separate.
Much of the land historically belongs to the Duchy of Cornwall, a landed estate connected with the royal family, and this ownership explains part of the islands’ close association with the mainland county. The details of leasing and land ownership are complicated, so it is best to say simply that the Duchy has a long-standing role there, and that the islands’ administration is distinct.
People on the islands often see themselves as islanders first. Scilly has its own character, pace of life and traditions, and anyone visiting should treat it as its own place rather than as an extension of the mainland.
Shared rock and shared heritage
Geologically, the islands are the exposed western end of the same granite belt that underlies Bodmin Moor and the uplands of the mainland. Weathered boulders, rounded tors and small granite cliffs are common, so the landscape feels familiar to anyone who knows the Cornish moors. White sand beaches and clear shallow water give the islands a distinctive appearance, though.
Heritage also overlaps. Scilly has a rich collection of prehistoric remains, including burial chambers and field walls, comparable to those on Penwith and described in the account of prehistoric Cornwall. Some of the ancient field walls are now visible only at low tide, because sea level rose in the centuries since people built them. This is one of the real-world roots of stories about lost lands, such as the legend of Lyonesse, a drowned country said to lie between Land’s End and Scilly. The legend is a tradition rather than a recorded fact, but it reflects the genuine sense that the sea has encroached over thousands of years.
Chapels, a maritime outlook and a reliance on small boats are part of the shared culture, too. Many of the older families on the islands have long ties to Cornwall, though there are also strong local traditions that belong to Scilly alone. Cornish language and place names are not a feature of daily life on Scilly in the way they are sometimes discussed on the mainland, so it is best not to assume they are.
Climate, flowers and gardens
The islands have an exceptionally mild climate, shaped by the surrounding ocean. Frost is rare and the growing season is long. This led to a flower-growing industry in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, with early narcissi shipped to the mainland markets when little else was in bloom. The history of early vegetables and flower growing on the mainland tells a similar story, and Scilly was a leading example. Flower farming is still part of island life, though it is smaller than it once was and tourism now matters more.
Tresco’s famous garden, which grows plants from many warm regions in the shelter of tall windbreaks, is one of the best-known results of the mild conditions. As in other places, check opening arrangements before planning a visit.
The sea around the islands
The surrounding waters are beautiful but hazardous. The rocks, reefs and strong tides have caused many wrecks over the centuries, and the islands have a long record of maritime disaster. One of the most famous is the loss of several Royal Navy ships in 1707 under Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovell, in an event that helped push forward work on better navigation at sea. The wreck stories of Scilly remain a major part of local history, and diving and boat trips there are shaped by that heritage.
Seabirds nest on the outer rocks in large numbers, and seals and other marine wildlife are often seen. Sensible caution applies: swell, tides and sudden weather changes mean boat trips and swimming need care and local advice.
Getting there
Access is by boat from Penzance, by air from a few mainland airports, or by small private craft. Services depend on weather, and sea fog can delay flights or sailings, so allow flexibility and check schedules close to the date. Once on the islands, most travel is by foot, bicycle or small boat, and the pace is slow. Because the islands are small and sensitive, following local guidance on wildlife, paths and beaches is especially important.