An upland in the middle of the county
Bodmin Moor is a stretch of high, open land in north-east Cornwall. Unlike the coast, which most people picture first, the moor is inland, exposed and often empty. It is a landscape of rough grassland, wet hollows, scattered boulders and low horizons, broken here and there by rocky outcrops. It is among the best-known examples of Cornish moorland, though it is not the only one in the county.
The moor is generally described as the highest ground in Cornwall. Brown Willy, on its western side, is usually named as the county’s highest point, at a little over 400 meters. Rough Tor, nearby, is another well-known summit. These are modest heights by mountain standards, but on a wet or windy day the moor feels remote and bleak, and weather can change quickly.
Granite beneath the surface
The moor sits on a large mass of granite, one of several granite bodies that run along the spine of Cornwall. Over a very long time the softer overlying rock has worn away and the granite has been exposed. Weathering has split it into blocks and, in places, stacked them into the rocky crowns known as tors. The wider story of how these formed is told under granite tors.
Granite also gave the moor its practical uses. Loose surface stones were gathered for walls, farm buildings and gateposts, and quarrying took larger blocks. Cornish building traditions depended on this stone, as seen in granite cottages and the field walls around the moor’s edge. The commercial side of that trade is described under granite quarrying.
Farming on difficult ground
The soils of the moor are thin, acidic and often waterlogged, so growing crops has always been hard. The upland has instead been used mainly for grazing. Cattle, sheep and hardy ponies have been kept on open ground for generations, and the practice of turning animals out on commons continues in some form today. The ideas behind it are covered under moorland grazing.
Farmsteads tend to sit on the lower, more sheltered edges, with small fields enclosed by stone walls and hedge banks. Many of those boundaries are old, and the structure and wildlife of Cornish hedges are a subject on their own. Some of the field patterns around the moor are thought to preserve much older layouts, which is one reason archaeologists find the area so valuable.
Mining and industry
Although Cornwall is best known for deep mines in other districts, the edges of Bodmin Moor have their own industrial past. Streams were worked for tin in earlier centuries, and later there were shallow mines, quarries and the tracks and tramways used to carry stone and ore. Remains of engine houses and spoil heaps can still be seen in places, and visitors interested in them can read about engine houses more generally.
Granite quarrying was important on the moor, and clay and other minerals were worked in nearby districts. Some of the old workings are now quiet and overgrown, but they can be hazardous. Open shafts, unstable ground and flooded pits are possible hazards, so advice on mine site safety is worth reading before exploring any industrial remains.
Ancient monuments
The moor holds a very large number of prehistoric remains, and this is one of its great attractions. Because the upland was never plowed intensively, many structures have survived on the surface. They include cairns, stone rows, circles and the foundations of round houses from later prehistory. People often use the term standing stones for the upright monuments, though many monuments on the moor are low and easy to miss.
Among the best-known groups are the three circles known as the Hurlers stone circles, near the village of Minions on the southeastern side. There are also enclosures and settlements on some of the higher tops, and the remains of Bronze Age and Iron Age life are spread widely. For background, see the overview of prehistoric Cornwall and the entry on Iron Age hillforts. Many monuments are protected, so it is best to look without climbing on them or moving stones.
Wildlife and habitats
The mix of dry heath, wet bog, rough grass and streams supports a range of wildlife. Typical upland birds include skylarks and meadow pipits, and ravens and buzzards are often seen overhead. Wet areas can hold insects and plants that depend on damp conditions, and the heather and gorse come into flower at different times of the year. Reptiles such as adders may be found in warm, sheltered spots, so take care in long vegetation. Since the species present vary by year and place, it is best to treat any list as a general guide. The wider picture of upland plants and animals appears under coastal heathland, where many of the same plants grow in a different setting.
Stories and place names
Bodmin Moor also features in local tradition. Legends associate the moor with giants, ghosts and a mysterious pool, and one famous novel set on the moor helped to fix a gloomy, windswept image in the public mind. Stories of this kind are covered more fully under Cornish legends. The names on the map can also be read as clues to older uses of the land, a skill discussed under reading place names.
Visiting sensibly
The moor is an open landscape with few landmarks, and mist can come down fast. Wear suitable footwear, carry a map and take weather into account, as described in the notes on moorland weather. Some land is private or used by livestock, so keep dogs under control, close gates and follow local signs. Paths can be boggy even in summer.
The moor is a place where farming, industry and prehistory overlap. Seen slowly, and with respect for the people who live and work there, it shows a side of Cornwall that is easy to miss from the coast.